Titan X-3 Power Rack Review: Is This the Best Home Gym Rack for You?

What's the best power rack for you? Well, that depends on several factors which I'll discuss later. But I can tell you that I've found the best power rack for me...

...It's the Titan X-3 Flat Foot Power Rack. Well technically, I bought the short version of the X-3. But it is identical to the full height version of the X-3 in every way other than its height.

In this article, I'll give you a comprehensive Titan X-3 power rack review. I'll tell you everything there is to know about this beast of rack: the features, the pros, the cons, why I chose it and more.

I'll walk you through the process of figuring out if the Titan X-3 is the best power rack for your home gym. If it is the right one, great! If you decide it's not, I'll arm you with the information you need to choose the perfect one.

I moved into my current apartment over a year ago. I was very excited to set up a new home gym right away. The rent agreement included exclusive basement access and the landlord gave the OK to use it for weight training...

...However, there was a catch. I had to wait for the previous tenant to move all of the stuff they left in there. It was supposed to take a few weeks. That turned into a couple months, which rolled into several months. Then after just under a year, I finally got access! Woo!

Having to wait so long to set up my home gym sucked. BUT, it gave me plenty of time to consider which power rack to buy. I already have a bit of nerdy obsession with power racks, as evidenced by my power rack comparison chart featuring 175+ racks and my super detailed power rack buying guide.

I had a blast researching many of the older racks I already knew about. I had even more fun exploring the many new power racks that have come out since the last time I looked into it deeply.

Most importantly, being forced to wait to build my home gym was a blessing in disguise because the Titan X-3 series didn't launch until February 24th 2017. This was about 7-8 months after I was supposed to have basement access.

If I didn't have to wait, I would've had to either pay much more for a rack with comparable specs/features, or I would've had to go with a rack that didn't meet my needs as well as the X-3 power rack did.

I ended up choosing the X-3 short power rack because it had the following features, which I either needed or really wanted in my power rack:

The above are my main reasons for choosing with the X-3 power rack. However, you may very well have different needs and preferences for your ideal power rack...

...With that in mind, in this next section, I'll discuss the key factors everyone should consider before buying a power rack and how the X-3 power rack stacks up in each category:

There are a number of things you should consider before buying this (or any) power rack. I'll talk about the most critical ones below:

Ask yourself the following:

If you answered yes to any of the above questions, then the Titan X-3 checks the box for capacity. It is rated at a very impressive 1500 lb capacity. This is largely thanks to it's robust frame consisting of robust 3" x 3", 11 gauge steel tubing.

Any well-built rack meant for serious long-term use will have a weight capacity of at least 1000 lbs. That's plenty for just about everyone.

Personally, I never thought I'd want anything more than 1000 lb capacity rack. I'm natural and plan on staying that way, so there's no way in hell my bench or squat will approach even the 700s (my dream would be a 600 lb squat several years down the line).

However, I've recently gotten into doing heavy power shrugs and high rack pulls. These exercises involve favorable leverages (for high rack pulls), use of momentum (for power shrugs) and relatively short ranges of motion (both) that lend themselves to using A LOT of weight potentially. How much? Near or even over 1000 lbs is feasible after enough training.

I'm far from that amount currently, but it's very possible I'll get there in the next couple of years if I stick to it. If and when I get there, I want a rack that can definitely handle that amount of weight slamming against the safeties. In reality, many of the racks rated for 1000 lbs could probably handle hundreds of pounds more, but I'd rather be safe than sorry!

So obviously most people will never actually get to the level where they'd need a rack that could withstand 1500 lbs., even doing the couple of exercises I mentioned above. Still, a 1500 lb capacity power rack is an overall construction quality and durability.

In short, you'll never outgrow this rack.

You need to consider the footprint of the rack to make sure it will fit within your floor layout.

The footprint of the X-3 power rack (both the short and tall versions) is 48" wide x 47" inches deep.

NOTE: The Titan website has the external depth listed as 49". However, this must be a mistake or typo because I measured mine and it is 47", as you can see below:

Of course, you actually need more than 48 inches of width. The barbell is 7 feet long, or 84 inches long. Then you'll need at least a foot on either side to lift safely without hitting walls other objects on either side. That's a total of 9 feet, or 108 inches width that you really need to account for.

Go to your basement, garage or wherever you're planning on building your home gym. Get a tape measure and take down the floor space dimensions.

Do you have at least 48" (really, 108" as explained above) x 47" of space available where you want to position the rack?

Don't forget to consider whether or not you'll have enough room for weights. If you use the optional X-3 weight storage pegs, you'll need account for the extra space taken up by the 45 lb Olympic plates. The pegs go on the front or rear uprights.

The 45 lbs plates end up adding about 2-3 inches beyond the end of the flat feet. That means you to account for about 50 inches of depth if you plan on using these storage pegs. You could alternatively store your plates outside the rack, on the floor (if you're cheap and lazy) or on a plate tree.

And what about any other gym equipment you plan on having in your home gym? Will that fit in the available floor space along with the power rack?

How tall is your ceiling?

You NEED to know this before buying this or any power rack. You don't want to buy it and end up realizing your rack will only fit if you create a giant hole in your ceiling.​

You also need to consider the additional height clearance you'll need above the total rack height to do pull ups without bonking your head on the ceiling. Most people will need about 8 inches of additional ceiling space.

There is a bit of a workaround for this if you're getting close to the max allowable height. That is, you can install the pull up bars lower on the rack. If your ceiling is exactly the height of the power rack or just a few inches taller, then you'll need to install the pull up bar up to 4 notches lower than the default position at the top of the rack. You'll have to find a similarly low spot for the second pull up bar, possibly underneath the first bar, or on the opposite side of the rack.

If you have a taller ceiling, that's great. Get the regular full height X-3​ power rack. It's 92" tall. In order for this rack to fit you'll need a ceiling that is at least 92". Ideally, your ceiling should be 100" or higher to comfortably do pull ups without having to install the pull up bars lower.

If you have a lower ceiling, then you're probably an ideal candidate for the Titan X-3 Short Power Rack...

...How low of ceiling? Under 92" tall but at least 82.375" tall.

As you can see, I barely made cut-off. That was a close call!

Hole spacing refers to the distance between the holes on the power rack uprights. These holes are where you attach the j-hooks, pin/pipe safety bars and any number of accessories.

You adjust these attachments up or down to get them in the correct height for your body and the barbell, depending on the exercise.

Not all racks have the same hole spacing. This matters. The further apart the holes are, the less precise you can be when positioning the height of the attachments.

Here are a couple of examples of how this can be a problem--all of which any lifter has experienced

​The above are just of the most common examples of exercises affected by hole spacing.

​Any exercise is at least somewhat less safe when the j-hooks and/or spotters are too high or too low. Plus, you unnecessarily waste your energy and throw off your technique because you have to work around the bad positioning.

So, generally, less space ​between the holes is best. Most racks probably have 3 inch hole spacing. This is decent, and you can get "close enough" to the ideal position for most exercises. However, it's not ideal.

I personally would never consider buying a rack with 4 inch or more hole spacing. This is where you​'ll start to run into a lot more issues with the j-hook and safety spotter heights.

I think that 2 inches​ and less is ideal. You can do just about any exercise perfectly in power rack with 2 inch hole spacing. However, some exercises can benefit from the additional precision allotted by 1 inch hole spacing (hence, why I said 2 inches and less)...

​...Those exercises where an inch can make a meaningful difference include the bench press and rack pulls at different heights. Those are the big ones that come to mind, at least.

Conveniently, these lifts all take place within a certain zone in the rack. Specifically, between about 2 feet to 4 feet off floor. This is the genesis of Westside hole spacing: 1 inch spacing in the bench press and rack pull zone, and 2 inch spacing above and below.

You may ask, "Wouldn't 1 inch hole spacing everywhere be optimal?" In theory, it would. However, in practice, that would reduce the weight capacity of the rack without a major positive trade-off. Second, it would increase the cost of the rack--again, without any notable benefit in return.

Westside hole spacing is what I and many others consider the gold standard of hole spacing in power racks.

The X-3 power rack does have Westside hole spacing. I wouldn't be writing this review otherwise, since it was a requirement when I was shopping around for my rack.

Consider how long you plan to use your new power rack. Will it be a short term solution, or a mid- to long-term investment? I'll give my advice on the different scenarios below:

Are you getting a power rack for just a short amount of time? Like just a few months, or a couple of years max?

Whatever the specific scenario is, the X-3 might not be the smartest investment if you only need to get a rack for short term/temporary or sporadic use...

...Why? The X-3 is more mid-range in terms of price. Sure, you get great value for that price. But the nearly $500 price tag isn't what most people would consider a "budget" rack.

I would instead recommend a basic budget rack like the Tit​​an T-2 for those with short term needs. It is "good enough" for most lifters and it's extremely cost efficient at $300.

The only exceptions to recommending a budget rack for short term use is for:

Or are you planning on buying a power rack that you'll be using for at least a few years? Even a decade, or two? Possibly even a lifetime?

If so, then an X-3 power rack is an excellent choice for these reasons:

How important is expandability? Meaning, do you need or want the ability to add a lot of different accessories to expand the type and total number of exercises you can do in/on your power rack--either right away or some time in the future?

If expandability is important, the X-3 is an excellent choice. It is a new rack and already has a bunch of different optional accessories that you purchase separately--and the number is growing.

It's also worth mentioning that even if Titan doesn't make certain X-3 accessories you'd thought would be available, then chances are Rogue Fitness makes them for their RML-390F. They'd be compatible with the X-3 since the specs of both racks are basically identical (more on this later).

In this review, I'll be going over all the different X-3 power rack built-in features and add-on accessories currently available from Titan (as well as ones from Rogue). Be sure to look at that part carefully if you need your rack to have specific accessories.

If you're looking for a rack with the greatest number of total accessories available (i.e. the greatest expandability), then you might want to consider the Titan T-3 instead. However, you have to also weigh the core specs (i.e. flat feet vs sumo base, weight capacity, dimensions, etc.) of the T-3 and X-3 against your preferences. Then decide accordingly.

Do you plan on doing any lifts with bands? Meaning, band-assisted or band-resisted exercises. These lifts are most commonly done by more experienced lifters, especially those who compete in powerlifting.

Some of the more common band-resisted exercises include:

It's important to realize that band-resisted exercises require attaching the bands to the bottom of a power rack.

This means two things:

Ideally, your power rack should have a space to attach band near the bottom of the rack.

Unfortunately, the X-3 power rack doesn't have holes on its base like the T-3 power rack does. This is because the X-3 has a flat foot design. Having holes on the flat feet would compromise their structural integrity. And the feet need to be as strong as possible since they are the literal foundation of the X-3 power rack.

Sounds like bad news if you want to do band resisted lifts, right? Well, don't lose hope just quite yet. I've got some easy workarounds that will allow you to install lower band pegs if you want to do band-resisted lifts:

If the rack is not secured to the floor for band-resisted exercises, then it may shift, pop up or possibly even tip over if you apply enough force.

Ideally, you should secure the X-3 by bolting it to the floor or a lifting platform with the optional bolt-down gusset plate kit using the appropriate hardware (e.g. this concret​​e anchor kit, which is compatible with both the T-3 and X-3).

Now, there is one workaround to bolting the rack to the floor via the gusset plate kit. That is, to load enough weight on the rack to counteract the upward force applied through the band tension.

You could do this by putting a bunch of 45s on the optional weight plate holders, and possibly getting multiple pairs of these weight plate holders to load on even more weight plate if needed.

You could also stack weight plates or heavy dumbbells on the feet of power rack. Or, if you have a workout partner, they could stand on the feet of the rack, using their body weight to keep it stable on the floor.

Understand that this "workaround" isn't something I officially endorse. There is a chance that you could underestimate the load needed as a counterweight, which could end in injury or damage to the rack, your floor or the ceiling potentially. However, if done right, physics agrees that the counterweight workaround will indeed work.

If you end up going this route, it's only feasible to do band resisted exercises with light to moderate band tensions. Once you get to higher band tensions, it becomes less practical to load enough weight onto the rack in the right places--and the consequences of miscalculating the counterweight load required becomes too risky. At that point, you need to just bolt-down the rack or simply avoid doing band-resisted movements.

This should go without saying, but you shouldn't go into debt to buy a power rack. Save up until you can afford a suitable rack.

Assuming you do at least have some money to spend, first ask yourself:

How tight or flexible is your budget? More specifically, how much money are you comfortable with spending?

If you're looking to pay rock bottom prices, the X-3 power rack is not for you. It has a mid-range price. There are significantly cheaper racks out there. Just understand that there is going to be a big trade-off in overall quality, specs, features and available accessories...

​...Don't worry, it's not the end of the world. Far from it actually. While it would be nice to afford a more expensive rack like the X-3, you can still get the job done with a basic bare bones rack like the Titan T-2. It'll cost you just $300. You can do all the typical lifts power racks are used for. And it will keep you safe. It even has a couple different useful accessories like dip bars and plate holders. No bells and whistles. No super impressive specs. But it's good enough and you can easily milk out years of use if needed before an upgrade makes sense (at which time you hopefully have enough money for something better).

What if you're willing and able to spend somewhat more to get better quality, BUT you're not quite ready to spend the ~$500 for an X-3 power rack?

In that case, I'd recommend the Titan 24" deep T-3 power rack--either the short or full height version. It's about $400-420. So you'll save about $100 vs the X-3 (and pay about $100 more vs the T-2).

Despite the relatively small jump up in price compared to the T-2, you get WAY more in terms of standard features and availability of optional accessories. The specs and features are impressive enough for these racks to be suitable for some commercial gyms. They're stronger than the T-2 and could keep you satisfied through a lifetime of strength progress. Plus, you can greatly expand it's capabilities by getting any of the several available accessories--I believe there are actually more T-3 accessories currently available than there are X-3 accessories. Plus, the T-3 comes standard with a couple features that you have to buy separately for the X-3; namely, plate storage pegs and band pegs.

All that said, there are some downsides of the T-3 compared to the X-3. As there should be, considering it costs an extra $100! The main downsides include the following:

Finally, if you've got $500 you're willing to part with for a power rack and the X-3's specs, features and accessories match up best with your needs and wants, then I say GO FOR IT. That's what I did, anyway. 😀

If you've got even more cash that you're just trying to throw away, then get a few X-3 accessories while you're at.

These are the main benefits of the Titan X-3 power rack:

All you have to do is look at the technical specs of the X-3 power rack to understand that it was designed first and foremost to be a heavy duty rack. Other racks like the T-3 are also what most would consider robust and capable of handling heavy use over many years...

...However, when it comes to strength, the X-3 is like the T-3, BUT ON STEROIDS! 😀 Sorry to resort to that overused saying. But it's true. The X-3 blows the T-3 (and any comparable racks) out of the water in this category.

It is literally 50% stronger than the T-3:

I know a lot about power racks. I've read through the features and specs of hundreds over the years when making my comparison chart and just out of interest.

The X-3 is the lowest priced rack in the category of strong, or heavy duty, power racks. This means:

There are certainly stronger and more precisely constructed power racks out there (e.g. Sorinex racks, Power-Lift racks, Matrix Magnum racks, Rogue Monster series racks and others) with crazy specs like 3" x 3" (or even 4" x 3"!) uprights and 7 gauge steel. BUT, they range from a few hundred to few thousand dollars more!

Even racks with comparable specs (i.e. 3"x3", 11 gauge) are more expensive. For instance, the Rogue RML-390F is almost identical to the X-3 in every way, and it costs hundreds of dollars more. More on this rack below.

Plus, the additional benefit of a load capacity/overall quality that's higher than the X-3's is likely minimal for home gym users--especially when weighing the marginal benefit against the cost.

The X-3 is more than just a strong block of metal you can squat and bench in. It's designed to be used with any of a growing number of power rack accessories that expand your exercise choice selection.

I'll talk about each and every one of the accessories you can get for the X-3 later on. For now, I'll just mention a few of the coolest ones: multiple dip bar attachments, double landmine attachment,

No Need to Bolt It to the Floor (Unless You Want to)

As mentioned earlier, one of the big reasons I chose the Titan X-3 was because it has a totally self-supporting design. You don't have to bolt it into the floor to keep it stable and safe, even if you're pushing some really big numbers in there.

This is because of two major design elements:

1. The flat foot design is made for stability. It distributes the weight over the floor. And because the feet extend about 6 inches beyond the uprights, on the front and rear of the rack, this prevents any rocking back and forth if a heavy bar is dropped inside.
2. The rack is REALLY heavy because of the large 3" x 3" uprights, 11 gauge solid steel construction and heavy duty hardware. Specifically, the short version is 334 lbs and the full height version is 343 lbs. This is heavier than most home or light commercial power racks by about 100 lbs! All this weight helps keep the rack steady on the floor thanks to this little thing called gravity. ;-P

So while you don't need to bolt down the X-3 power rack, you can do so if you want. You just have to get the 4-pack of bolt-down gusset plates for about $55.

You might want to do this if you plan on doing heavy band resisted squats or bench press. Or, if you just want to maximize stability to the point that the rack will never budge one single millimeter.

Another super convenient feature of the X-3 power rack is that there is no bottom crossmember on the base that is blocking the front or rear of the power rack. So you can easily walk or bring a bench all the way through either end without impediment.

This means you can put equipment exactly where you want it inside the rack. For example, if you want to put your bench further back, you can do so. Whereas, if there was a bottom crossmember in the way, you'd have to position the bench more toward the front in than you'd prefer. This was actually an annoyance with my old power rack.

Besides better equipment positioning, the biggest benefit with the walkthrough design is more room to exercise inside the rack. Here are some exercises made possible, or easier thanks to the walkthrough design:

Is the Titan X-3 the best power rack for the money?

It's impossible to say, since there's subjective elements to that question. However, in my case, the Titan X-3 short power rack was most definitely the best power rack for MY money.

As with all Titan products, the price is ridiculously low for the overall construction quality, the specs and the features you get.

Yes, there are other 3" x 3" power racks out there with westside hole spacing and tons of accessories. BUT guess what? They cost around twice as much, or more! But you can be sure they're not double the quality. They might be 5 or 10% "better" overall, if such a thing is even quantifiable.

Whatever the case, the marginal improvement isn't worth the 2x or higher price tag. That extra bit of quality doesn't make a difference to me from a practical standpoint.  And I'd bet most people reading this review would have a similar perspective.

Titan's first and currently it's most popular power rack is the Titan T-3. It's a great rack and you may be considering it as well for your home gym.

The T-3 has many things in common with the X-3, but there are some major differences. Let's take a look at them in the table below:

Now, I want to highlight and expand upon a few key items shown in the comparison chart above:

The most apparent difference between the T-3 and X-3 is the base.

One type of base is not inherently better than the other. They're just different. Each has its own benefits and drawbacks.

Let's start with the benefits and drawbacks of the sumo base: 

Now, let's examine the pros and cons of the flat foot base:

The default rack T-3 racks (tall and short ones) have a 24 inch internal depth. There are also "deep" versions of the T-3 with a 36 inch internal depth (tall and short versions).

The X-3 is only available with a 30" internal depth for both the tall and short X-3 power racks. This is nice because it is significantly deeper than the default T-3 depth. In my opinion and experience, 30" depth is plenty of space for just about any sized person doing just about any exercise that requires a power rack.

However, if you know you want even more space because of preference or comfort, then you may be disappointed by the lack of 36" depth X-3 rack option.

The Titan X-3 power racks are almost the same rack design as the popular Rogue Monster Lite 390F also known as the RML-390F.

The Rouge version has been around for years. Whereas the X-3 just came out in the first half of 2017. So Rogue gets credit for originality on this one. But that's probably not a factor most lifters care about in deciding which track to buy.

The two competing racks, while VERY similar, aren't completely identical. Here are the main differences:

Here are the important similarities:

Unfortunately, installation wasn't as straight-forward as I expected. Frankly, this is because the instructions are confusing.

You're basically just going off a diagram. And as I noticed that diagram has some small but important details that are shown incorrectly. Specifically, it doesn't show the correct order that the hardware (i.e. bolts, washers, lock washers, nuts) should be secured.

FYI, the correct order is: bolt -> washer on one side, then lock washer -> nut on the other side. This might be obvious if you're into DIY projects or construction, but I'm not. So I had to start over once I realized I was putting it together wrong.

See below for a bunch of photos I took while unboxing the X-3 and organizing all the parts for assembly:

The X-3 comes standard with 1 skinny bar (1.25" diameter) and 1 fat bar (2" diameter). These are actually the same exact bars used for the Titan T-3.

If you wanted a second skinny pull bar to replace the fat bar, you could do so by purchasing an additional skinny bar separately. Then put it in place of the fat bar.

I personally don't see the value in having 2 skinny bars for myself--or most other lifters for that matter. However, maybe you and a workout partner want to do pull ups at the same time using the same bar.

Here's another possible skinny/fat pull up bar scenario you could set up:

You could have both the skinny and fat bar set up as normal. Then you add a third bar (either fat or skinny) in between the original 2 bars.

You'd have to position the bars so there's enough space to do pull ups on one without hitting into either of the others. It might be a bit cramped, but it's doable. The main benefit of doing this is that you would create a kind of makeshift monkey bar set up that would allow you to do neutral grip pull ups (i.e. palms facing each other).

The above are just the different ways you can get creative with pull ups--using just the skinny and/or fat bars. However, there are actually A LOT of other optional X-3 pull up bars and accessories to give you even more variety when it comes to pull up variations. I'll discuss these later on in this review.

The Titan X-3 power rack comes with a pair of padded j-hooks. The "padded" part refers to the UHMW plastic liner covering both the upper and lower portions of the j-hook.

The UHMW plastic eliminate metal-to-metal contact between the j-hooks and the bar. This is an important feature because of the following specific benefits:

These j-hooks have a short, angled lip. This design makes it easy to unrack the barbell. You can just hoist the bar a very short distance up and away from the hooks in order to successfully clear the lip and unrack the bar.

Many other j-hooks or j-hook alternatives have a tall and/or non-angled lip. This requires you to hoist the bar higher up over the lip and increases the likelihood of hitting the bar into the lip when you unrack...

...Even if you don't hit the lip, you still have to lift the bar higher than is ideal. This requires additional energy expenditure and ROM, which can throw off your strength and/or form. This is an especially important concern on bench press where maintaining the setup position is extremely important and can easily be disturbed by poor execution during the unrack.

Another good feature of these particular X-3 j-hooks is that they have a tall upper portion. It is 6 inches high. This is great because you're much less likely to rack the bar too high and accidentally bang up the uprights, compared to if you were using j-hooks with a short upper portion.

Compare this to if you had j-hooks with a short upper portion. In that case, you'd be much more likely to accidentally rack the bar a bit too high and bang it into the uprights. Or at the very least you'd have to put extra focus on racking precisely to avoid doing so.

Even though you get a pair of the X-3 j-hooks with the rack, you may want to consider getting a second pair. This way you can quickly switch between exercise stations if you're supersetting two different barbell exercises. Or maybe you want to transition from one exercise to the next quickly or because you don't feel like unloading the bar.

If you want the benefits of having extra j-hooks, then be prepared to get a extra barbell if you only have one now.

The pin and pipe safeties are the default ​spotter bars that come standard with the X-3 power rack.

The main benefits of these pin/pipe safeties ​are as follows:

The pin/pipe safeties, however, are not perfect for every situation. Here are a few of their shortcomings:

They consist of a 1/2" pin and a 1 3/4" pipe. You put these spotter bars in the rack by first holding the pipe between the two uprights at the desired height. You then slide the pin through the holes in the first upright, into and through the pipe, and all the way through the rear upright. Then do the same on the other side of the rack.

Why use a pin and pipe for spotters? Because the small 1/2" pin design allows the rack to have small 5/8" diameter holes with 1 or 2 inch hole spacing.

However, a 1/2" pin by itself wouldn't be nearly strong enough. That's where the pipe comes in. The pipe greatly bolsters the strength of the spotters. Not only that, but it absorbs more of the bar's impact, and reduces any acute damage and long-term wear to the barbell. This is all thanks to the structure of the pipe and its large size (1 3/4" diameter).

There are about 2 dozen optional accessories for the X-3 power racks as of the time I'm writing this review (November 2017). I've seen Titan add a couple new accessories each month for the past few months.

I expect them to continue adding more X-3 accessories to their product lines in the coming months and years.

Below, I'll discuss all of the accessories that are currently available. As time goes on, I'll try to update this page with any new X-3 accessories that come out.

There are currently three different dip bar attachments available for the X-3:

I'll discuss each of these in detail below. But first, I'll go over the different exercises you can do on both of these dip options. And if there's in any notable differences between how you do these exercises on the two different attachments, I'll be sure to point them out to you.

First off, you can do di​​ps on this attachment. Duh! It's in the name. Below are the other, much less obvious exercises you can do these if you get a little creative:

In case you're unfamiliar with inverted rows, you do it by grabbing onto a fixed barbell, or in this case the dip handles. You position your body facing up to the ceiling with your legs and torso straight. Start with your arms hanging straight, then row your body up against gravity.

The X-3 dip handles attachment actually has a very convenient design for inverted rows. This is because the handles attach opposite each other on the front left/front right uprights or the rear left/rear right uprights. This set up allows you to position your body between the uprights--This, combined with the X-3 power rack's walkthrough design, allows you to have your body pointing toward the front or the back of the rack.

Inverted rows are one of the few areas where the X-3 Y dip bar attachment is less effective than the X-3 dip handles, despite being better overall. You can still do inverted rows with the Y dip bar option, but you can't position yourself as optimally--You have to either straddle one of the uprights (not recommended) or face away from the attachment, which might be difficultif space is limited outside the rack.

Incline push ups refer to a modified, or easier version of the push up, where your hands are higher than your feet. The higher up you place your hands relative to your feet, the easier it becomes.

It works basically the same with both dip attachments options:

1. You adjust the height to the desired level.
2. Then you grasp the handles, walk your feet out, make your body straight and proceed to do push ups to your heart's content.

Believe it or not, you can also do pull ups with both of the dip bar attachments, too!

The power rack comes with two pull up bars. But those are straight pull up bars. Whereas, the dip attachments allow you to do neutral grip (palms facing each other) pull ups.

The process for setting up either of the dip attachments for pull ups is pretty straight forward:

You just adjust the height of the attachment so that it's at or near the top the upright(s). Then you're all set to do your neutral grip pull ups.

This is a neat little trick to have available, especially if you don't have enough headroom using the skinny or fat pull up bars. When you use the dip bars for pull ups, you can attach at a lower height, so you have plenty of clearance to do pull ups without hitting the ceiling.

Of course, you could also solve the pull up headroom issue by installing one of the included pull up bars at a lower height. That's what I plan on doing when I get around to it. But even that option doesn't give you the ability to use a neutral grip.

There is more than one way to do a dip. In fact, there are many different types of dips.

This includes modified dip variations to make dips easier for beginners. This also includes advanced dip variations to that make dips more difficult. And it includes other types dip variations that emphasize the chest, shoulders or triceps more.

Check out these 20 different dip variations if you want to get creative with this exercise--some (but not all) of the variations shown can be done on these X-3 dip station attachments.

Now that I've covered the exercises, let's look at each dip attachment option in detail.

X-3 Dip Bar Handles

The X-3 dip bar handles are the most basic of two different types of dip attachments available for the X-3 racks.

They are two separate dip bar handles that attach to either front left and front right uprights, or the rear left and rear right uprights.

The handles can face inside the rack or outside. I recommend using them inside the rack for better stability if you do heavy weighted dips and you don't have the rack bolted down with the optional bolt-down gusset kit.

These have an impressive 700 lbs weight capacity. I don't know if anyone could exceed that amount doing weighted dips (excluding a few of top 400lb+ freak Strongman competitors out there). So they're plenty sturdy. But they're less robust and less durable than the X-3 Y dip bar attachment, which is a behemoth of dip attachment (I'll discuss this in the next section).

So, should you get these dip bar handles? If the following are true, then yes, you should get these dip handles:

The X-3 Y dip bar is more impressive of a dip attachment compared to the dip handles discussed above. It is a single piece of equipment as opposed to the more basic X-3 dip option (discussed above), which consists of two separate pieces.

As you probably guessed, this dip attachment is named after the Y-like shape it resembles. It has a robust base that makes contact with the rack along an entire 10 inches of the upright, and wraps around three of the four sides of the 3" x 3" upright tubing.

From its base, it extends outward another 10 or so inches before branching out into the handles. This is provides plenty of clearance to perform dips, which often inolve angling your torso forward (especially on chest-focused dips)--the last thing you would want is to have to worry about bumping your noggin into the uprights on every rep.

Because this Y dip attachment extends out so far, it needs additional support to ensure it can handle even the heaviest of weighted dips with ease. This support is provided by the triangular gusset welded on the underside.

​The handles are long and are somewhat angled. This gives provides a very ergonomic taper that allows you to use a grip width of anywhere between 17 to 24 inches. You just position your hands more forward or backward depending on your desired grip width.

This large range of grip widths ensures lifters of any stature - tall or short - can do dips comfortably. It also lets you target the triceps more by going narrower. Or you can emphasize the chest a bit more by going a bit wider.

The handle widths are thicker. They're just under 2 inches in diameter. This actually makes it easier and more comfortable to perform dips compared to on narrower handles, in my opinion...

...Over the years, I have done dips on all kinds of different dip stations, with different handles. I find that the the weight is more evenly distributed over my palm with thicker handles. Whereas the thinner handles can sometimes feel like they're jamming into my thumb and forefinger region. It's not harder to grip since it's not a pulling motion.

The X-3 Y dip bar is secured to an upright with a pin which allows you to quickly mount/dismount the dip station. You can mount/dismount it in about half the time it takes for the X-3 dip bar handles.

You can attach to any of the four uprights and you can have facing in the rack or outside of it. However, you should NOT do dips with the handles outside the rack IF the rack is not bolted down with the optional gusset plates.

I recommend the same thing for the separate X-3 dip bar handles. However, it is even more important with the Y bar dip attachment because the handles extend much further out and all the weight will be on one corner of the rack as opposed to being spread between two uprights--thereby greatly increasing the possibility of the rack tipping if you're heavy and/or are doing weighted dips.

I'd recommend the Y dip attachment if you agree with the following:

The X-3 parallel bars are a brand new accessory introduced by Titan.

I thought I was done writing the review when I saw it, and I had to come back and write this section! But I'm happy to do so for this particular X-3 accessory, since it's a pretty unique one with some broad applications.

Let's start with how they work: As the name implies, the parallel bars are two separate pieces. Each piece includes a 29.5-inch bar with with brackets on either side, which connect to the rack.

The connecting brackets are over a foot long. They hold the bars away from the uprights so that they're positioned toward the middle of the power rack, closer to where you would want to grip when doing dips. If you didn't have the bars positioned more toward the middle like this, then they'd be too far apart to do dips (the rack's internal width is 42" after all).

The way the brackets actually secure to the uprights a bit odd--or at least different than how any of the other accessories attach. It's a two-fold attachment mechanism:

What makes the connecting brackets special, though, is that they are actually adjustable in terms of their width! That is, you can move them so the distance between the parallel bars (i.e. your "grip width") becomes closer together or further apart. There are 4 grip width settings: 15", 17", 21" and 26".

The way you set the grip width is by inserting the quick-pins into the desired hole on the bracket (i.e. one of the bottom 4 holes that are in the slight arc; see image above). For a narrower grip width, you'd insert the pin toward the back of the bracket for a narrower grip width. For a wider grip, you'd insert it toward the front (i.e. toward the laser-cut "TITAN" as shown above)

It's worth pointing out that you do not have to adjust the bolt on the upper part of the bracket to adjust the width. The bolt stays in. You just remove the quick-pin, swing the bracket forward or backward until the holes line up for the desired width setting, then reinsert the quick-pin.

Also, as you might have noticed, there are 4 holes on the bracket that run in a straight line, perpendicular to the 4 holes used for adjusting width. These are for adjusting height. But, if you're like me, you may be wondering why there are so many holes. After all, there is only one bolt per bracket, so wouldn't you just need one hole? Well, I think I figured it out. I'll try to explain...

...First, I'll point out that you can only put the bolt in one of the top 2 holes, since these two holes are the only ones with matching holes on the opposite of the bracket that would receive the end of the bolt. These holes, by the way, are spaced one inch apart (center-to-center). So, this allows you to get the adjust the bar height with the greatest possible precision of 1 inch increments, even if you're installing the parallel bars in one of the 2-inch hole spacing regions of the uprights (remember, it has 1"-2" Westside hole spacing).

As for the 2 other holes below the top 2 holes in the bracket, you may end up needing to put the quick-pin in either of those, as they may be the only ones that line up with holes on the upright (depending on which height on the uprights you're installing parallel bars).

Hopefully that explained it for you. If not, don't worry--it's a pretty minor detail anyway. But to summarize, the basic reason for having all 4 of those holes in the straight line is that they give you the ability to adjust the height with maximum precision.

The X-3 parallel bars may be the right dip attachment for you if:

A monolift is a piece of equipment that lets you unrack and re-rack a barbell for squats without having to walk it out or walk it back in. It's most useful when using max or near-max weights.

And it's actually used in some powerlifting federations during competition, albeit almost exclusively in geared/equipped federations, rather than the raw federations, which are currently most popular. That said, you don't need to compete in powerlifting at all to benefit from training with a monolift.

...Most lifters have never used a monolift. This is largely due to the fact that they're pretty inaccessible. You won't find one unless you go to a more serious strength/powerlifting-oriented gym. This is because monolifts are usually their own separate entity. They almost look like power racks themselves and are about the same size. And as you'd expect, they're very expensive.

However, the X-3 monolift is different! It is compact version of the monolift that attaches to the X-3 power rack. It essentially piggybacks off the power rack's stability and strength. Thus, you get the functionality of a traditional monolift in a fraction of its size and at a fraction of its cost.

I actually got the X-3 monolift attachment when I ordered my rack. And I'll be writing a separate X-3 monolift review soon. So keep an eye out for that...

...Until then you can take a look at the 2 slightly different versions of the X-3 monolift attachment for yourself:

And here's a quick rundown of the monolift attachments' key specs:

One of the awesome things about this X-3 power rack is that you don't need to bolt the rack to the floor to use it safely, but you can if you want to.

As I've said, one of the major reasons I went with the X-3 power rack vs the T-3 power rack was because the T-3 needs to be bolted down. 

If you don't bolt down the T-3, you risk tipping it if you rack a heavy barbell too hard or accidentally dump the barbell against the uprights. This simply wasn't an option for me because my landlord understandably doesn't want me drilling holes into the basement floor.

The X-3 was perfect for me because it got rid of this problem. The flat foot design, with the feet extending in front of and behind the uprights, provides the stability needed to prevent the rack from tipping.

The X-3's large 3" x 3" frame also adds over 100 lbs more total weight compared to the T-3's 2" x 3" frame (343 lbs for full height X-3 vs 230 lbs for full height T-3). Simply being heavy adds to its stability. The heavy weight itself is of little importance compared to the flat foot design with regard to preventing tipping. Rather, the heaviness really ads to the stability in terms preventing slight shifting/sliding or wiggling of the rack when racking or dumping a heavy weight.

Other, lighter non-bolted down racks can shift around maybe an inch or so if you don't set down the bar gently enough. My first power rack (the Powerte​​c P-PR) would do this, and I'd have constantly shift it back into place so that it was even with where I preferred to stand.

Now that I've thoroughly delved into why you don't need to bolt down this rack, let me talk about the fact that you can bolt it down with the optional X-3 bolt-down gusset plates and why you might want to do this.

​Here are the main benefits of bolting the X-3 power rack to the floor:

The mechanism for bolting the rack down is pretty convenient:

NOTE: There is an (unofficial) trick to increase the stability of the power rack without using the bolt down gusset plates. This is what I do improve the rack's stability when using the spotter arms. That trick is to simply weight down the opposite end of the rack by loading the weight storage pegs with enough extra weight plates. This works pretty well. But of course it has its limits. If you're using really using a lot of weight, then you really should bolt it down.

A landmine is a highly versatile piece of equipment. It attaches to a fixed position near the floor (e.g. at the bottom of a power rack) and has a barbell holder that holds one end of the barbell.

There are two joints between the barbell holder and where it's attached. This double-joint mechanism lets you move the opposite end of the barbell in ANY direction: up, down, left, right, diagonally or in any type of curving pattern.

As a semi-interesting aside, barbell landmines get their name because traditionally the equipment is standalone metal base with the barbell holder on it. The base is then weighted down by 45 lb plates. This setup resembles the now widely banned anti-personnel landmines used in war.

​Landmines are an excellent attachment to have for the following purposes:

The X-3 landmine attachment only comes as a double landmine unit. There is not a single landmine version available for the X-3. There is a single landmine attachment made for the 2" x 3" uprights of the T-3 and T-6, but it does not work the X-3's 3" x 3" uprights. The X-3 double landmine, however, does also work with the T-3 and T-6 racks.

In any case, a double landmine is superior to a single landmine. You can do all the same exercises with a double landmine as you can with a single landmine (you simply use just one landmines). Then you have an even greater number of exercises available with a double vs a single landmine.

The only additional requirement to be able to do any double landmine exercises is that you need a second barbell. If you don't have second barbell now, you can always get one at some later time.

Here are some of landmine exercises ​you'll have access to with the X-3 double landmine attachment:

The parallel handle is made for use with the landmine attachment. It goes on the far end of the barbell prior to loading any weights on. The weights go on after and hold it in place.

The main use of parallel handle is for T-bar rows. It provides a far superior grip compared to the alternatives (e.g. using your hands on the barbell itself, or creating a makeshift handle from a towel or a v-bar attachment that you pull against the bar).

You'll be able to lift much heavier weight and feel your target back muscles working more intensely with this handle.​

T-bar rows are an awesome back exercise. They're actually one my favorites. So this ​handle and the actual X-3 landmine attachment are both on my short list for future purchases for my home gym.

Titan makes two versions of this. The only difference between them is the diameters of the handles:

Some other notable features of both variations of the handle include:

These are the same exact band pegs as those used for T-3 and T-6 power racks.

As mention in previous sections, you should only use band pegs ​on the bottom of rack for band-resisted exercises if you have the rack bolted down.

The flat feet that form the X-3's don't have holes for band pegs. This is likely because having holes in this location would structurally weaken the rack's base and reduce its total weight capacity.

So if you want to do band-resisted exercises, then you have use a workaround to attach the bands from the bar to the bottom of the rack. Here are the solutions I've come up with (some are better than others):

This is the most elegant solution for band resisted exercises. It will work fine for most scenarios and it doesn't require purchasing any power rack accessories besides the band pegs.

Here's how you set it up:

1. Put one band peg on at the lowest point possible on each upright.
2. Attach the band around the front left and rear left pegs, and then around the left end of the barbell. Do the same on the right side.

So basically, the band has three points of contact on each side. One at the top and 2 at the bottom, forming a triangle with the band.

Having the band spread so far apart at the bottom like this is actually perfect for band deadlifts. And it will still work well enough for bench and squat.

However, I consider this method a slight "workaround" because it's not perfect. For band bench press at least, it is ideal for the band to be attached at just one point at bottom, aligned with your bar path. This way, you're pressing directly against the tension...

...Whereas, if the band is spread apart at the bottom, you're more likely to experience some tension pulling forward or backward if you don't position the bands and yourself in the optimal position. And as you can imagine, that can throw off your rhythm or back/shoulder positioning during the set.

So, while this is not the perfect for every situation, it'll still get the job done.

This workaround does not involve using any band pegs. The idea is to set the pin/pipe safeties to the lowest height possible.

The great thing about this band peg workaround is that you can attach the safeties on the bottommost hole height on the rack. Compare this to the two workaround #3 and #4, which I discuss below--They have a similar basic premise. However, they utilize different types of spotter bars that can't be attached nearly as low as the pin/pipe safeties.

Once you have adjusted the pin/pipe safeties to the lowest height setting, you just need to attach the bands:

1. Wrap one band around the left pin/pipe safety.
2. Wrap the other end of the same band around the left end of the barbell. The position of the bands on the safeties should be in line with where the bar will be at the top of the rep.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with another band for the right side.

This set up works great for squats, bench and deadlift. However, one important thing to point out is that you'll need a second set of safeties for spotting on bench press and squat...

...You can get another pair of pin/pipe safeties if you want, but I'd personally recommend getting either the X-3 spotter arms or X-3 flip-down safeties, since they have additional uses for other types of exercises.

This is probably the second best workaround for putting band pegs near the bottom of your rack for band resisted movements.

You'll need the X-3 flip down spotters. I personally wouldn't recommend getting them for just this purpose, since they cost $130 and the above solution works just as good if not better.

However, I would recommend getting them if you also do heavy rack pulls or power shrugs, since they are superior for reducing rattling and bouncing of the bar when you slam the weight down vs the default pin/pipe safeties.

Assuming you have a pair, here's how it'd work for squat and bench:

1. Set the flip down safety bars as low as they'll go--just above the gusset plates supporting each of the uprights. This should be low enough so you can put the pin/pipe safeties above them in the proper spot if you need them to perform the lift safely.
2. Put one band peg on each flip down spotter. It should be positioned such that it will be in line with where the bar will be at the top of the rep.
3. Wrap the band on the left side around left band peg and left end of the barbell. Do the same on the right side. 

NOTE: This set up won't work for deadlifts since the flip down spotters will be too high, even at the lowest possible setting. Use the method described in the previous points if you want to do band resisted deadlifts in the X-3 power rack.

This entails using the X-3 spotter arms inside the rack instead of outside the rack, which is how they're typically used. Also, you need to attach it as low on the uprights as you can.

Unfortunately, you can't attach the spotter arms at the very bottom of the rack. This is for two reasons:

1. Part of the arms extend down several inches to provide support
2. The gusset plates supporting the uprights extend up several inches.

These factors put limitations on this workaround. For example, it won't work if the spotter arms prevent you from putting the pin & pipe safeties at the correct height (on exercises that require it).

I'd rank the X-3 spotter arms as one of the most practically useful accessories available for this power rack.

These spotter arms attach on just one upright. This gives you the ability to do exercises on the outside of the power rack. You are free at last! No longer are you confined to the inside the cage!

Why would want to work outside the rack? Well, there's plenty of reasons:

The spotter arms are very easy to add and remove. They work very similarly to how you adjust J-hooks. The only difference is these spotter arms also have a pin that you insert at the bottom to provide additional security and stability.

They're very strong. Each spotter arm is made from thick 7 gauge steel (thicker than the 11 gauge rack frame) and has a gusset plate welded on its underside to provide the support needed for the 24 inch spotter arm to be both long and strong.

They are rated for a 1000 lbs weight capaciyt. This is less the 1500 lbs rating of the pin and pipe safeties. Still, 1000 lbs capacity is nonetheless impressive considering only have one attachment point to the rack.

As covered earlier, the X-3 power rack comes standard with the pin and pipe safeties. The pin and pipe safeties are great. They totally get the job done.

However, just because something is good, doesn't mean there isn't something else that's better...

...Enter the X-3 flip down safety spotters. These flip down spotters serve all the same functions as the pin/pipe safeties. But they have a few notable benefits on top of that, which makes them better overall:

I've just discussed a two different types of safety spotters options available for the X-3. That's in addition to the pin/pipe safeties that come standard with the power rack.

You'd think that'd be more than enough options, right? After all, you're just trying to do one thing: stop a barbell from falling beyond a certain point. Well, I got one more option for ya!

And actually, this one is probably the most unique type in terms of what it's made of and how you can use it. It has some pretty attractive benefits, which push it toward the top on my list of most-wanted X-3 accessories.

Okay, now let me actually talk about this different spotting accessory option...

These are the main benefits and use cases for the strap safety system:

Below are the key specs of the X-3 strap safeties.

Unless you already have a separate weight plate tree or plan on buying one, the X-3 plate holders are almost a must-have.

You need to put your weights somewhere when not in use. Sure, you could just put them on the floor. But that's just plain uncivilized! Actually, that's what I did in my old home gym and it was a pain in the ass to picking the weights off the floor.

I couldn't just throw the 45s down because I didn't wan't to crack the concrete or the plate itself. I had to be extra careful not to pinch my finger between the plate and floor when gently laying them down. Plus, they got dirty as hell from being on the floor, which often rubbed off onto me.

Looking back on it now, that was a lazy move on my part. I could've saved myself a lot of minor inconveniences and a few pinched fingers over several years by getting a cheap weight tree. Oh well. 😀

Now I know better. So for my new home gym, I made sure to get the optional plate holders attachment when I ordered my X-3 power rack. They attach on any hole on the rack, but the most logical place to put them is on the lower portion of the rear uprights.

There are two versions of the X-3 weight storage pegs:

Like I mentioned above, the storage pegs are meant to attach on the uprights. This is what I do and it works totally fine for me. However, I can see that it is not the perfect solution.

Specifically, I can see two issues. They're relatively minor and don't affect me, but I can see how they might annoy some lifters:

If you're bummed out about these issues, don't be! There are several workarounds, and that's not even including the obvious alternative of just getting a weight plate storage tree. See below:

These rotating pull up handles are clever pull up attachment. It gives you more variety in terms of the types of pull up/chin up variations you can do thanks to the swivel pin design that enables free rotational movement.

Here are some of the things you can do with these handles:

I think this is a great attachment. It's practical and I could see myself using it relatively frequently if I had it. Plus, it's pretty budget friendly at just $30.

I'd certainly use these rotating handles more than if I had the X-3 pull up spheres attachment, which I discuss in the next section...

...That being said, though, I probably won't be getting these any time soon. The reason is that I really don't need them. I'll be set with the existing pull up bars (well, just one bar really, since the fat bar is too close to the ceiling).

The X-3 pull up spheres, available as 3-inch spheres or 5-inch spheres, are more than just another tool for pull ups. Rather, the primary use of this X-3 power rack accessory is to train grip and forearm strength using your body weight.

Practically speaking, this will involve doing pull ups and pull up variations on these spheres. But my point is that you wouldn't do pull ups on these if your main concern was training your back.

Yes, you will get a good lat/back workout doing pull ups on these spheres. But it will pale in comparison to the grip/forearm you get. It will also pale in comparison to the lat/back workout you'd get by doing pull ups on a traditional pull up bar.

​This is a perfect tool for:

Here are some of the exercises you can do on it:

Since you can place the individual sphere handles in any hole, you position them closer together or further apart. This means you can do close grip or wide grip versions of the above exercises.

One final notable feature of these X-3 spheres is that they're supposed to be ergonomic. One indicator of this is 1" rubber spacer on the bolt portion, directly behind each sphere. This allows you to grasp the spheres without your knuckles and fingertips touching the crossmember. Plus, it prevents the metal spheres from scratching up the rack.

Now, the question comes to this: Should you actually get this attachment? The answer is only "Yes" if you want to focus grip training using body weight. If that's the case, this is the best tool for you. If not, then I see no real value in getting it other than novelty.

I personally don't plan on getting the X-3 pull up spheres anytime soon. I'm not planning on doing any dedicated grip strength training now or in the foreseeable future. It's just not a priority. That doesn't mean these aren't a quality power rack accessory. It's just not for me, at this time.

If you do want this for grip training, then definitely give it a shot. I'm sure it will be the same high-value I've come to expect from Titan equipment. And the best news for you is that it's one of the least expensive X-3 accessories, at just $29.

The X-3 wall strip is a very handy, space saving accessory. It is available as a single wall strip or as a pair of wall strips.

It is meant to be mounted to a concrete wall or a wall with sturdy wood studs. This requires drilling the appropriate hardware through the mounting holes in the back of the wall strip.

Unfortunately, the mounting hardware is not included. If you'll be drilling into a concrete wall, you should use 1/4-inch concrete anchors (to fit into 3/8-inch mounting holes). If you're drilling into wood studs, the way to go about mounting it is simply using 1/4-inch lag screws (to fit into 3/8-inch mounting holes).

NOTE: These above aren't official hardware/installation instructions. Rather, it's information based on some quick researching of how to mount different equipment to wood or concrete walls.​

The wall strips are designed to store equipment or to attach accessories for use as a separate exercise station. Each wall strip comes with two quick pins for to easily and securely attach other accessories.

These are the two most common uses for the wall strips:​

Here are a couple of other less common yet creative ways to use the X-3 wall strips:

The wall strip is 36 inches, or 3 feet, tall. That gives a decent amount of room to store multiple attachments. However, it's still short enough that you should give good thought to exactly where on the wall you mount it.

Think about what you'll use it for. Then mount it higher or lower accordingly.

As touched upon before, an example of when mounting low makes sense would be if you wanted to use the landmine attachment on it and/or battle ropes. Mounting higher would make sense if you wanted to hang a suspension trainer like the TRX. You'd want to mount somewhere in between (e.g. 1-2 feet off the floor) if you wanted to use it as a dip station.

What if you want to use it for multiple applications with different recommended mounting heights? The answer is simple: Get another one (or a second pair) and attach them at the different heights for their respective applications.

It is 3" x 3" and made from 11 gauge steel just like the X-3's uprights are. However, the wall strips are actually "steel channel." This refers to its shape/structure. Basically, it's just like the square tube of the uprights in every way, except that one side is open. The open side in the case of this wall strip is the front, as you can see in the photos.

The use of steel channel instead of square steel tubing is by design. You need the open front to be able to install the hardware and secure the back of the strip into the wall...

...It's important to highlight this last point -- that the back strip is against wall -- to understand the limitations of the wall strip. Specifically, it helps us see which other accessories work or don't work with the wall strip:

Most lifters focused on powerlifting, bodybuilding or general strength training styles will have no interest in or need for the mounted wall ball target. That includes myself. However, I'll still talk about for those who may be interested in it.

This accessory will appeal primarily to Crossfitters, or lifters interested in dabbling in some Crossfit exercises. It designed specifically to train for wall ball shots, which is one of the exercises done at the CrossFit Regionals competition.

You install by inserting the post part of it down into the top of one of the uprights. You then line up its holes with the holes on the upright, and secure it with the included hardware (i.e. the bolts go through the front of the upright, then through the wall ball target post, and out the back of the upright).

You do have some flexibility in terms of the height above the ​top of the upright. The lowest setting would be positioning the post so the angled portion of the post starts right as it comes out of the upright.

I can't tell for certain, but it appears that you can adjust the height as much as 6 inches higher. I'm basing this on what I can see from the images and specs--the post hole spacing is 2 inches, there are 7 holes (14 inches) on each segment of the post, you need at least 4 holes (8 inches) of the post kept down inside the upright to secure it; do the math (14-8) and you get a max of 6 inches of additional height.

Note that this accessory actually works on both the X-3 as well as the T-3 power racks.

However, you don't have to mount it to a power rack. You can also mount it to a wall stud, according to Titan. However, I'm pretty sure you would need to buy different hardware to secure it. Lastly, I don't see why you couldn't also mount it to a cement wall. In that case, you would most definitely need different hardware to secure it.

If you are interested in getting this accessory, keep in mind the following:

The X-3 shackles that are meant to be bolted on to one of the crossmembers that form the rack.

Each shackle has a hole at its bottom. The pair of shackles comes with a pair of carabiners, which are meant to go in the holes so you can easily attach other equipment. However, the carabiners are removable if you want to use the holes for something else.

You can move the shackles closer or further apart depending on the application. Generally, though, the position and distance between shackles will be similar for most uses.

These are a few different uses for the X-3 shackles that I came up with:

There's likely a number of other creative ways you could use these shackles, but the above is a good starting point.

If I ever get these, it would probably be for the ab straps and to secure a lat/triceps/row pulley system. However, I currently don't have a real need or desire to get either of those items. So for the time being, I won't be getting these shackles.

There are other types of racks besides power racks within Titan's "X-3" product line. This includes different configurations of squat stands and squat racks (i.e. half racks).

I discuss these in detail in my Titan X-3 Squat Stand and​​ Squat Rack review. If you don't want to read the full review, then I'll provide an overview here:

First off, here are images of all the different squat stands and racks with links to their product pages: